Anchored off Porvenir, we visited the nearby island of
Nalunega.
The small island (about 200 by 400m diameter) is home to a Guna
community of 500 people. Landing on the beach in our rubber dinghy, we were
welcomed by the friendly Guna villagers.
Nesto showed us around. He was happy to use his English he had learnt
when working on a square rigged sailing vessel for 25 years, before returning
to the community he was born into. Now he has a wife and seven children.
The houses are built of bamboo panels tied with string, and palm
leaf thatch. Floors are sand – the entire island is only 2m above sea level. As
we visited his home, the family were all busy unloading bucketloads of river
water which the community canoe had fetched from the mainland. This is boiled
for drinking.
The women were all beautifully dressed in bright sarong
skirts and blouses which incorporated a mola panel front and back. The molas are
intricate works of appliqué and embroidery with patterns themed round fish, birds, and flowers. We have been visted
by canoes during our visit to the San Blas with women selling molas, and men
selling fish and coconuts.
The women also wore beaded leg wraps from ankle to knee, and
gold jewellery including nose rings. Nesto took us to the community kitchen
were preparations were being made for a festival the next day to celebrate the
coming of age (14 yrs) of one of the village girls. 4 beautifully adorned
grandmothers were arranging enormous cooking pots over a fireplace, others were
busy preparing plantain.
The most substantial building on the island was the school,
made of concrete. An open space was dedicated to a basket ball court, in
constant use. The village was busy, with many children running around playing .
The poverty of the villagers was evident but their
generosity and warmth of welcome was wonderful.