Tuesday, 5 April 2022
Monday, 4 April 2022
We left Puerto Williams on Sat am for quite a long motor west along the Beagle Channel. VoA doesn´t go to windward well - so they don´t try. Both engines on at 2000rpm and bash on! Copious wildlife - a few penguins & dolphins, but best of all several pairs of whales. One pair surfaced in front of us and we needed to slow down not to hit them. They were identified as humpback whales. We anchored in Calleta Yengedera, where a big glacial river joins the sound. 3 of us walked up the valley, past a disused estancia. An old path led up the valley. Skip (Novak) described it as an easy walk - but that was before the beavers arrived. They have built several REALLY large dams - 100+ m long 1-2m high, which - because they leak - led to a combination of lakes and bogs! They put our Mill Bay efforts to shame by orders of magnitude!
We motored up to Caleta Olla last night - the most popular anchorage in Patagonia, apparently. There were 5 boats already as we attempted to anchor med-style, with 2 lines back to the shore. It started snowing with gusty winds and everybody but me grabbled with anchors and long lines. I was designated cook (for supper and lunch) so was in my shirt sleeves down below. I git in verybody´s good books by presenting them with hot soup as soon as they had finished! Roast veggies / lentils & tahini sauce. Roast Veggies for 12 is a ridiculous amount!
Overnight, the wind touched 55 knots, apparently. But I'm not skipper so I slept soundly! This morning - horizontal snow and amazing glaciers, but I was down below doing lunch, so could keep warm. Lunch now done, I´ll put all my kit on and get on deck (or at least in the doghouse)
Saturday, 2 April 2022
Friday, 1 April 2022
Week 1
There has been a slight change of plan in that our tour of the Beagle Channel will not include Cape Horn; we'll do that at the start of our passage to Cape Town.
I'll introduce the crew.
Ken - the captain. Spaniard from Barcelona. very experienced. Has sailed Vinson of Antarctica for every mile of her life so far. A many of many parts, having been a shoe designer and also written a cookbook. Currently recovering from a bad cold (not Covid) in his cabin.
Justi - 1st Mate. Also from Barcelona. new to Vinson, but many years and sea miles. Lovely.
Paddy. 2nd Mate - Yachtmaster instructor from Belfast
Paying crew like me:
Tim: Sometime doctor and entrepreneur from Dublin. Plenty of sailing experience
Carlos: ITU consultant from St Marys. A bundle of energy. Been swimming at least once a day. Did the same 1/2 IM triathlon as Jo in 2003
Chris: Business consultant from London
Kate: From San Francisco - younger than the rest of us!
Also on board
Anton: 15 year old cadet - 6'3" very sharp. From Cape Town he'll go to Spain to get more experience before return to Chile for exams
Arturio: 18 years cadet from Puerto Williams. Has not stayed on board yet, and has come down with the cold.
Christian: Ex-chilean navy lieutenant here at the invitation of the owner, Nicholas. Just recovering from the cold.
Also:
Maurice, who was meant to join us but has been delayed by Covid. Hopefully he'll be here by next weekend, when we set sail 'properly'.
Most of the crew in front of the sailing schoo; loking towards Micalvi
L to R: Christian, Late, Ken, Carlos, Me, Chris, Tim, Anton
Beagle Channel looking north to Argentina
After we leave tomorrow, ability to send pictures will be poor or none - will send some on my return to Puerto Williams
Sunday, 27 March 2022
Day 1 Course
the 'RYA Pelagic Ocean Syllabus' - the ocean yachtmaster course altered
to be more relevant for high-latitude expeditions.
Just now we have had the naming ceremony for our yacht, Vinson of
Antactica. It is actually owned by Chilean entrepreneur Nicholas Ibanez
- who has a serious, and very expensive boat-buying habit. Vinson is
owned by him but used by Skip & co for expeditions. We are parked next
to his 57 Hallberg-Rassy, for his personal use....but not to be confused
with his Hallberg-Rassy 64 for use in the Med. He flew in a priest from
Punta Arenas on his personal jet(!) to say mass and bless the boat
before his wife broke some champagne over the bows. I was reminded that
South American countries do like pomp, ceremonies and speeches
Our provisional schedule is:
Course : Mar 27th to Thurs 31st
Depart to explore Beagle Channel Fri 1st/Sat 2nd
Cruise west along the Beagle Channel as far as the Pacific. Return to
Puerto Williams via Cape Horn
Arrive Puerto Williams 9th April
Depart Puerto Williams bound for Cape Town 12th April
Arrive Cape Town 5th May
All date are assuming 'AGW WP' (All going well, Weather permitting)