Bottom of NZ

Tonight we are camping in the lee of some dense bush at the bottom of South Island, just round from a point called "Chaslands Mistake"!

It's still blowing hard but with more sun than rain 😎

There are seals, dolphins and nocturnal penguins living nearby. It's wild and beautiful.

Tomorrow we plan to meet up with James and Katherine Heath, friends from home (James sailed across the Atlantic with us. Followers of the blog may recall his musings on climbing the mast mid-way...)

We will be exploring Fiordland together, starting with the Humpridge track walk over 3 days next week.

The Windy South

We were on the road for much of yesterday heading south past Dunedin to Moeraki, where there are giant round ancient boulders on the beach.  Bailey the van shuddered most of the night in a gale of 40+ knots which continued all day today. The skies have been spectacular and driving south along the coast there is mile upon mile of unspoilt, but pretty unfriendly (to boats) beach.

Land of milk and honey

Nicki has been teaching me how to make cheese: ricotta and fromage blanc so far. Their neighbour Nick is a dairy farmer so access to volumes of fresh milk is easy.

Richard and Nicki's home is remote but they are virtually self sufficient:

Eggs from their hens, honey from their bees, fruit trees bearing lemons, plums, apples and pears, a thriving veg patch with plans for a poly tunnel and fruit cage. Neighbouring farmers swap meat for Richard's latest catch of shark or crayfish.

Just no vineyard (yet!)

We had a great time staying and catching up on their Pacific island cruise on Tintin which they continued after we left last July from Fiji.

Coronavirus concerns in rural NZ

Molesworth Part 1 - out of order

To drive down the east side of South Island the main road (State Highway 1) follows to coast to Kaikoura then on to Christchurch. There is a far less travelled road, a gravel track which takes you 200km from Blenheim up into the mountains to NZ's largest working station (farm) , Molesworth station, over passes and then down to Hanmer Springs and the east coast. Our next stop is to visit Nicki and Richard (who live near Cheviot halfway down the South Island near the east coast), who sailed with us last year. So having checked the camper van insurance covered us for the remote Molesworth Road (no AA rescue or mobile coverage up there) we set off into the hills.

We passed only a few other vehicles over the 2 days on the very dusty gravel track. It is dry up in the hills on the east side. There has been little significant rainfall since October and farmers are struggling to feed their stock due to the drought. We loved the grand and remote scenery. Halfway we stopped to camp near Molesworth Station homestead at 900m. Trees in a gully gave us shade and a water hole in a stream was perfect for a dip after a dusty hot day.

The second day took us through the high plain of the station and then down the greener valleys to Hanmer Springs, a spa town with thermal baths.

Visiting Nicki and Richard’s patch

Molesworth part 2

Across to the South Island

We had sun, rain, gale force winds and then serene calm and blue skies as we crossed the Cook Strait and then went through Queen Charlotte Sound to Picton on the South Island.

Last night we caught up with Ian and Alison from Makara of Exe, who sailed on the World ARC with us last year. They live in a piece of paradise up the Wairu Valley, with horses, a 2 week old foal, deer, cats and dogs and made us hugely welcome.

Today we are taking the  200km gravel Acheron road up to Molesworth station at 1300m, and on down to Hanmer Springs tomorrow .

Kapiti coast to Wellington harbour

It was our first night "freedom camping" last night, pulled up by the beach at Raumati opposite Kapiti island. Yesterday afternoon the island vanished behind cloud and rain, but it was back this morning. 

Yesterday was special particularly because Rob walked 4 miles on the beach without pain stopping him. A big improvement compared to a week ago. Fingers crossed for our plans to trek in Fjordland in early Feb.

Today: a morning swim before breakfast, hard to beat as a start to the day.

On down to windy Wellington, it was a beautiful sunny day. Wooden houses perched on steep hillsides, wonderful trees and birdsong in the botanical gardens, busy bustling dockside and waterfront. 

We are watching the sunset from our patch in Camp Wellington on . Shelly Bay. It's all pretty good!

Sarah, Brett and Phoebe

Here they are! Fun to catch up after so long. Sarah is Prof of Leadership at Massey, and pioneering for women in sport in NZ. We shared stories of our sailing trip and may have whet an appetite for a family trip to the Tuamotu atolls in French Polynesia...

Back on the road again

I was sad to leave Homewood and the Tathams yesterday after a wonderful few days, but excited to be en-route to see Sarah Leberman in Palmerston North , my dear college friend last seen 19 years ago.

On the open road the plains spread out in front of us, before we crossed the mountains to the west and dropped down to Moonshine Valley Rd near Massey University.

The Woolshed

In the woolshed the lambs are mustered before being loaded onto the truck, and they are dagged (shorn around their bottoms) before going to market and then to the slaughterhouse.

Up on the beams are the names of the shearers who have worked here over the years - with names going back prior to the 1950s

The Woolshed

In the woolshed the lambs are mustered before being loaded onto the
truck, and they are dagged (shorn around their bottoms) before going to
market and then to the slaughterhouse.

Up on the beams are the names of the shearers who have worked here over
the years - with names going back prior to the 1950s

Rob's progress

The wonderful hospitality and R+R at Homewood has been great for Rob's
leg. Today he has doubled his walking distance to a hundred metres.

Matt the shepherd; and the view out to the South Pacific (next land is Chile!)

Homewood

In 1956, Mum sailed to New Zealand on board the Southern Cross to spend time working as on occupational therapist in Wellington. During the 6 week voyage she met John Tatham, a kiwi sheep farmer from Homewood Farm on the SE shore of the North Island in the Wairarapa region. Mum was warmly welcomed by the whole family and spent a lot of time at Homewood, which she loved. Now it is farmed by Andy, one of John's sons, and his wife Jan. Rob and I have been similarly welcomed to Homewood this week, and now I know why Mum has raved about it all of my life!

Here is "Papa John" with his son Andy

Homewood in numbers

At Homewood

6000 acres

10,000 sheep

few hundred cattle

90 beehives in the Manuka bush

lots of dogs

3 shepherds

2 beautifully appointed Air BnB houses to stay in

one stock manager

one beekeeper/infrastructure/crops/machinery/irrigation genius

one farmer Andy

and one amazing do anything Jan

and Nicola who processes the honey and makes anything you can think of
out of honey or beeswax.

Today 500 one-year-old lambs were taken to market in an enormous triple
decker truck, together with 30 rams.

Every 2-3 weeks, 500 lambs will go to market (8,000 are sold each year)

The shearers were here last week. Ewe wool only fetches a small amount
so shearing is a necessity, but a net loss. In times gone by a truck
load of wool could buy a new tractor for the farm. No longer.

homewoodfarm.co.nz

Napier and the Black Clash

From Auckland we drove south to Lake Taupo yesterday and spent time relaxing in the thermal pools of Wairakei before continuing on to Napier. Here we are catching up with Julie and Trevor Myers. Julie is a physio, seen below giving Rob's back some attention. She and I climbed Te Mata before we all went to the "Black Clash" cricket match this afternoon. All Blacks vs old Black Caps cricketers. A great 20 20 match with the cricketers winning by just 2 runs.

Milford Beach, Auckland

Rob has been choosing his favourite cocktail of medication today and was assessed,  reassured and given stretches to do by brilliant Patricia the physiotherapist here in Milford. 

Meanwhile I enjoyed a scenic run along the beach, watching kite surfers fly by on foiling boards.

On Patricia's advice I'm taking Rob to enjoy relaxing in thermal pools tomorrow near Lake Taupo, en route to Napier.

Of rig checks and back checks

A day of 2 halves. This morning a routine climb atop the mast to check the standing and running rigging and to make the most of the photo opportunity from 20m above deck level.

This afternoon relocation to Auckland in Bailey the van, to visit the urgent care centre recommended by Fay. Rob can't walk more than 25m before stopping in pain. If you know Rob, you will know that he must be hurting somewhat.

I was bowled over by the positive experience at the clinic. After registering and waiting 5 mins, Rob was triaged by a nurse. 10 mins after that, seen by a very competent and thorough Dr. Then a lumbar Xray and finally a review with the same Dr. A plan of action and a prescription.  Meds picked up. The whole visit from walking to walking out, in 1 hr 20 mins. 

Basically, nothing serious was found and Rob will be doing drug trials over the next few days.  Dear Fay has welcomed us back into her home to regroup.

We hope to head SE to Napier in Hawks Bay later this week to catch up with friends Julie and Trevor Myers and see the Black Clash cricket match (All Blacks vs Black Caps).

Sailing out from Whangarei

Today's weather was beautiful so we took the chance to get out to sea. It was wonderful to be on the water again. We sailed out to the wildlife sanctuary of the Hen and Chicken Islands, dropping the anchor in South Cove of Lady Alice Island.
The water was clear deep blue green but full of little lengths of what looked like fish eggs all lined up neatly in double rows just wafting around in the current. Swimming to inspect the hull showed us what a lovely forest of weed is growing on Tintin's bottom! A real wildlife sanctuary.
We passed a cargo ship on the commercial wharf being loaded with thousands of logs of wood, quite a sight. Laden to the plimsoll line she looked pretty full up. Hoping they have calm weather to wherever the destination may be.
On our return in to the harbour we were passed by red foiling catamaran about 40 foot long, literally flying along, escorted by fast motor boats. I've never seen a foiling boat that huge! Maybe it's part of the research for the 70 foot foiling monohull for the next America's cup match?

Back ashore after a very happy day, Rob tried walking and found that as per yesterday it was very painful. He has had low back pain for several days but now it's shooting down his leg and he can't go more than 50m. Oh dear... time to dig out the medical kit and see if anything there can help. Fingers crossed.

Sailing out from Whangarei

Introducing Bailey

We have hired this VW T5 campervan to explore New Zealand from Mitchell in Auckland. It is named Bailey,  after Mitchell's beloved dog. I think we will get along well.

Welcomed to New Zealand

Fay Pankhurst gave us a great welcome to Auckland at her home in Milford, just by the beach, thank you Fay! We got the maps out and did some planning together.
Much restored after the long flights, we set off in Bailey the campervan, heading north to find Tintin at Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei.
The drive took us through valleys and farmland with glimpses of both the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea. The trees are striking, so different from home: tree ferns, native flowering trees, bottlebrush and wattle.
By late afternoon we were back on board our home from home. Tintin was tied up in the marina, with everything very ship shape: thank you Nicki and Richard. She is coated in a fine layer of ash dust thought to have come from the Australian bush fires which turned the skies here orange last week.
We will spend a couple of days on board before setting out on our road trip, destination Fjordland at the bottom of South Island.

Arrival in New Zealand

Fay Pankhurst gave us a great welcome to Auckland at her home in Milford, just by the beach, thank you Fay! We got the maps out and did some planning together.
Much restored after the long flights, we set off in Bailey the campervan, heading north to find Tintin at Marsden Cove Marina, Whangarei.
The drive took us through valleys and farmland with glimpses of both the Pacific Ocean and the Tasman Sea. The trees are striking, so different from home: tree ferns, native flowering trees, bottlebrush and wattle.
By late afternoon we were back on board our home from home. Tintin was tied up in the marina, with everything very ship shape: thank you Nicki and Richard. She is coated in a fine layer of ash dust thought to have come from the Australian bush fires which turned the skies here orange last week.
We will spend a couple of days on board before setting out on our road trip, destination Fjordland at the bottom of South Island.

Part Two

Our adventures have restarted. Rob and I are bound for Auckland, this time it has taken only about 24 hours so far and from the plane's camera on its nose we can see the sunrise over the Tasman sea, with the North Island of NZ just visible on the horizon. Tintin is down there, moored at Marsden Cove Marina near Whangarei, north of Auckland. It is a great feeling to be nearly back on board again, and very exciting to be visiting New Zealand.
Yesterday it wasn't so clear that we would make it to the airport in time to catch our flight. Rob's back has been causing him some grief over the last few weeks and yesterday morning I found him prone on the bedroom floor trying to pack his bag, but unable to move due to the pain. Much worse than ever before. But he managed to get up eventually and stayed upright and mobile and mostly smiling (or grimacing). Good.
For the first time we looked forward to being taken to the airport by one of our children, real role reversal. James was our chauffeur at the wheel of the 18 yr old Polo. Filling the tank en route to Heathrow in Amersham we noticed fuel leaking onto the forecourt from under the car almost as fast as it was going in via the nozzle. Ahhhh. Not a good sign. Bucketfuls of sand were deployed and we pushed the car to a far corner of the forecourt. I called for a taxi and for the AA (I love the AA by the way), feeling so glad that I had arranged AA cover for the polo the day before.
Leaving a slightly stranded James we went on our way, and by the time we were boarding the plane the AA had done their magic, fixing a leak in the tank down pipe (probably caused by gliglis) with putty.
More anon...