Notes from the Back Cabin, aka Beginners Biscay
Notes from the Back Cabin, aka Beginners Biscay
Dear Bridget
I don't know anyone else who will read this blog, so here goes. It's for you. Notes to keep you up to date and (mis)informed?
For anyone else who might read this, I am Stephen, resident of the Port Side, Stern cabin, Immaculately Tidy. I consider myself Able, as I can Splice, Steer and Trim. But I am not necessarily rated Able as I do not like to climb the rigging and might therefore be termed a Waister.
Part 1 GB to BofB
Saturday 31st August Getting there and away
This Able Waister started the trip to Salcombe by going to Edinburgh. Scotland was fine but is not the place to start a trip to Salcombe. Endless trains and buses, with too much luggage, and far too many emails eventually ended by noticing Jo at a Bus Stop. Had she not been there, we would have stayed on the bus. So that was good but not as good as the World Class BBQ served by Kate, assisted by Andrew (husband) and Milo (Springer Spaniel).
Sunday 1st September Setting sail
Today began jumping up and down on the fore deck with excitement at Departing England. The Channel was grey and somewhat lumpy. I learned that Roscoff is in France (somewhere in the past I think I was told it was in Spain, but maybe that was Tim (son), who when heading for A Roche made a mistake and corrected it with a train).
It can be said that Melita (wife) did not have a good day. Some of it was yellow, and some green. She displayed fortitude and optimism but not good health. We arrived in Roscoff, which is in France, and she immediately recovered and found her French, and a Bun Shop.
Monday 2nd September Day off in Roscoff
We were awarded a day off as Skipper feared Foul Weather. We used this opportunity to stroll in the sunshine and show off our Fashionable Wardrobe. AW found another Boreal 47, not afloat. So now we have all considered the position of the Rudder, which is important. We showed our passports in the ferry terminal, had coffee in a café, went for a run around the botanical garden and found a marine biology university which is 150 years old. Otherwise, Roscoff has a long pier which reaches out to sea, good showers, and an Irish consul.
Tuesday 3rd September To Aber Benoit
The Able Waister enjoyed a lumpy day again from Roscoff to Aberbenoit. The sea was grey and Melita (wife) looked like a Corpse, this observation being confirmed by several of the Crew and the Skipper. She recovered wonderfully when we anchored high up-river and did up-river swimming and walking. She showed remarkable skill in killing mosquitoes in the Port Side, Stern cabin late into the night but used this experience of death to make a firm decision to Jump Ship at dawn.
Wednesday 4th September Melita off, start Biscay
The Able Waister (AW) was detailed to abandon Melita ashore at First Light. That time of the day is not known for mental sharpness, and so while AW did bring the Outboard Engine, he did not bring the Fuel Tank. The hefty rising tidal flow delivered Melita swiftly to the first mooring line near the shore when the Outboard Engine snagged on said line and cut out. Melita's somewhat short assessment of the situation and AW skill was gently deflected by the offer of Tintin's Head Torch with which she set off down a dark country lane to find the Bus to Spain.
Meanwhile AW found Tintin in the dark (without the Head Torch) as he had inadvertently left on all the house lights. Dignity restored, and Skipper now awake, we set off 24 minutes ahead of schedule at 0734.
Thursday 5th September Well out in the bay, not really fishing
For beginners to this experience, the Bay of Biscay is not the place to start cruising. There are plenty of waves, sometimes a lot of wind, no buses or trains and certainly no email. The AW was surprised to be left alone above decks in the dark running 8 knots with goosewinged sails and a night so dark you could squeeze it. Somewhat to his own surprise, he and all aboard survived and rolled in to a rhythm of Watch, Eat, Sleep, Eat, Watch, Eat…
Friday 6th September Whey hey we're in Coruna
Friday didn't dawn on AW's watch so much as creep open in a grey and windy way. The unknown lights of the night resolved into local boats, distant boats and bits of sky. The swell became broken waves, standing waves, lumpy waves, boat bouncing waves and eventually the sort of waves where the best thing is to practice steering. We arrived in the afternoon, with rather shaky legs, and discovered it doesn't take much beer to feel dizzy in Spain – but whey hey we're in Spain and they have beer so what's not to like about that? We ate our meal on stools -AW pleased not to fall off.
Saturday 7th September Day off in Spain
Melita arrived noon from San Sebastian by bus. She had Fought the French in French when they kicked her bus seat and enjoyed a Spa in Spain so the whole effort was considered a Major Land Victory. Skipper had again awarded AW a day off ashore (something about the wind, and new crew) so this sunny opportunity was used to swim and admire the to-ing and fro-ing of the extraordinarily large cruise ships, as well as the equally extraordinary physiques displayed by German, Polish and Spanish skippers, and a dancing troupe of traditional dancers.
Sunday 8th September Santiago del Compostela
Today Melita took AW to see the finish of the Camino at Santiago del Compostela. This is not a race but a pilgrimage, not so much a location as a state of being. AW reflected on this, and the impending voyage to Madeira. Bea (new crew) arrived after a wedding (not her own) from Gatwick. AW ingratiated himself to the First Mate by bringing the Saloon, Galley and Starboard Heads up to the state of the Immaculate Port Side, Stern cabin. Skipper bought Fishing Equipment without Instructions and commissioned AW to catch a Very Large Fish. First Mate made cautionary remarks about Orcas (which are not fish).
Monday 9th September Set off for Camarinas, fishing begins
Melita set off to find the beginning of the Camino, and possibly James. Tintin set off on a grey and swelly sea to expand our Fishing Horizons.
Tuesday 10th September
