Tenerife

We have enjoyed a couple of days exploring the island,  from the forested northern hills to El Teide, the massive volcano towering 3,500m up in the middle of Tenerife, in its Mars- like arid landscape. 

Tintin's moored up in Santa Cruz where she'll spend the next little while, and we are on our way home.

It was a very successful delivery trip of 1500 nautical miles.

Next installments on the blog will be in November when we get ready to cross the Atlantic to St Lucia, 3000 nautical miles west.

Dawn arrival at Santa Cruz, Tenerife

Nearly there

We left Salcombe 16 days ago, and tomorrow morning we'll arrive at Santa Cruz, Tenerife where we'll leave Tintin secure in the Marina Atlantico until we return later in the autumn.

It has been a very good time, we have enjoyed our crew's company enormously, and Tintin's performance has been solid. The weather has been generally good, and we haven't tacked for ages. The sea has settled into a very gentle ocean swell.We are motoring today, the engine needed for the first time ( apart from in port) since rounding the Costa del Morte at the top corner of Spain.

Now we're on the same latitude as Agadir on Morocco's Atlantic coast, at 30° N, and it's a lot warmer.

Led by dolphins

Ukulele time

Bluewater sailing

Blue skies and seas, force 3-4, slight swell and waves: it's a treat.

Tintin's stingray sail is up and we're making a decent 6 knots south towards Tenerife. No motoring yet 😊.

It's quiet on board! We so wish Steve Melita and Bea could have enjoyed a day like today.

Hoping for clear skies tonight for the nearly full moon to guide our way 

Lazy Sunday

Today's major activity was the design and execution of a stencilled Tintin logo on the harbour wall at Porto Santo. There are hundreds of paintings along the wall, of varying standard, not sure we have raised the bar at all, dribbling paint being a bit of an issue!

This little island lies just NE of Madeira and is a "top destination" for Madeira tourists who arrive on the daily ferry to enjoy the long sandy beach and relaxed vibe.The harbour is full of serious looking ocean going boats who are stopping en route south.

We have just waved goodbye to Stephen (AW), Melita and Bea. All will be sadly missed. It's been a lot of fun on board.

Tomorrow we'll be leaving this calm harbour and heading south, 300 miles to Tenerife.  The winds are abating and we expect to be motoring much of the way

The socks!

Tintin rounding Porto Santo harbour wall, 4 days 6 hours and 690 miles from Camarinas, Galicia

We have arrived at Porto Santo, Madeira

All well! Time for a swim then a long quiet night's sleep

Safe arrival at Porto Santo, Madeira

Melita beat us to Madeira

Great to see Melita who was awaiting our arrival in Porto Santo

Madeira and Porto Santo in view

Pulpo in Porto

Notes from the Back Cabin, aka Beginners Biscay

Part 3   We can see land now

Dear Bridget

Able Waister was delighted to see you on the phone this morning; you were looking splendid, but AW was by his own admission somewhat dishevelled, caught before a morning shave.

Socks and poetry

AW received a rather Special Request yesterday.  He is not known for stylish dressing, but a Special Request came in the form of an ask from Stowaway (of whom, more later).  She asked if he might once again wear his rather snappy Port and Starboard Socks.  AW, blushing, agreed to do his best.  As it turns out, his blushes were actually spared as Horror of Horrors, having had so many days at sea, he found his sock drawer (well, a small shelf in the Port Side Stern cabin really) to be empty!  The most fortunate timing of the Special Request allowed him to gently air and recycle the aforementioned Socks and they are now duly on display.  Sadly for AW, the Stowaway has not noticed…

Saturday 14^th September         Porto Santo for Pulpo  

Huge excitement on board this morning.  Cloud cover in a boat is described as a number out of Eight.  Who knew that the sky has eight bits?  As dawn crept out embarrassed from behind what was described in the Ships Log as 7.5/8 clouds, AW saw the Eildon-like* hills of Porto Santo.  (*Readers may not be familiar with the Trimontium of Melrose but these three Eildon hills present a generous bosom-like profile when approached from any direction.  AW has drawn an illustration in the Log to assist the Skipper).

AW has promoted the purchase of Pulpo (Iberian delicacy caught in the sea and prepared to look like a wedding hat) but has not yet persuaded Skipper of the fun to be had in trying out New and Foreign Food.  Today is it.  We will make Landfall.  We will Arrive.  Stowaway has assured AW that We will be Heroes.  We will purchase Pulpo in Porto.

Postscript

[After tidying the Sock Drawer, and before leaving the boat, AW gave me a screwed-up bit of paper.  He said that he’d found it in the deep recesses of the Sock Cupboard, but I rather wonder if he was too shy to share his poem with us (Ed.)]

 

Darkness and Light

 

It is only in deep darkness we see lightness.

Myriad phosphorescence in the wake,

And thin faint navigation lights

On ships and shore.

 

It takes a voyage to foreign clime

To see these precious lights in distant ocean

And recognise each one as its clear messenger

Of truth, hopefully in time.

 

Stars shine in daily daylight undetected

As does created effervescent light

And do the safety signs at many corners

Subtle signal from a nearby sailor.

 

Lessons learned in dark may serve in daylight

Help me see the stars in sky and sea

Lead me where your lights have been placed carefully

And send me where I can truly be.

 

 

 

  ________________________________  

 

This e-mail message is sent on behalf of the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine, a charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England and Wales with company number 222655 and whose registered office is at Pembroke Place Liverpool L3 5QA ("LSTM")

The contents of this e-mail are subject to LSTM’s email disclaimer found at:
http://www.lstmed.ac.uk/disclaimer/email-disclaimer

  ________________________________  

Lessons from TinTin’s newbie (new-Bea), a list

1. Tanker dwellers are delightfully friendly folk, especially at dawn
2. Almost-stale wrap + marmite + cheese + pan fried = heaven (take note Rosslyn-loving Londoners)
3. Anti-seasickness tablets should be rebranded as highly effective sleeping drugs
4. Port and starboard socks are very much 'in', serving both the forgetful and fashion-forward (shoutout Steve)
5. Gregorian chants at 2pm are sadly not a crowd pleaser 
6. George Ezra and/or Gladiator soundtrack are very reliable afternoon favourites
7. Friendship with Wendy (wind-pilot) requires close attention, a delicate touch and trust (and at times some frank conversation)
8. Otto (auto-pilot) is the prime example of technology successfully overtaking human capability 
9. Despite apparent lack of heat, afternoon sunscreen application forgotten at your peril 
10. Don't try and compete for cabin tidiness with Steve (a losing game)
11. Orion has a dog (unsurprising that this is new knowledge given embarrassing lack of constellation exposure)
12. Cerveza con limón continues to reign supreme, and must never be confused with the lesser shandy 
13. Wildlife spotted: 7 dolphins, 8 birds, 0 orcas
14. Plastic bags spotted: 2 
15. Fish caught: 0 (15b. Fish are safe when Steve is trying to catch them)
16. Bread can be made in a pan
17. Jo met a man who sailed around the world with his pet chicken
18. Night shifts get considerably less difficult when one stops taking sleeping pills 
19. Sunsets > sunrises (off the coast of Spain/Portugal in Sept 2024)
20. Cumulative tea drunk by group: unquantifiable numbers 

To be explored: have it on good authority that 4am is a popular time for Gregorian chants on TinTin, will report back. 

A successful and educational week.

6am, 50 miles to Porto Santo

Tintin's newest helm

Goosewinged by moonlight

Dolphins at the bow

It's much harder than you might think to get a good dolphin photo!  Much easier to snap one of Stephen and Rob. But to our delight, the dolphins were with us again just now, playing in the bow waves.

Earlier today 2 flying fish popped out of the water next to us. They're even harder to catch on camera!

Dawn. 500 miles west of Gibraltar

Showers and portholes

Notes from the Back Cabin, aka Beginners Biscay

Part 3   Back end of nowhere?

Dear Bridget

AW received big news yesterday!  There are, in fact, OTHER READERS of this blog!!  Among the (admittedly sparse) readership are a sailor who nearly reached the North Pole in a plastic boat, a pregnant Skipper of the Western Isles and a less than gallant sailor who damaged two boats and sank her brother in a grimly fought out collision and sinking during Friday Night Junior Sailing.

Showers and Portholes

AW has been reflecting on Showers.  On land, the word often describes a trivial event but here in the North Atlantic a Shower comes with Black Clouds, fear-filled gusting wind and a general sense of unease in the Crew termed a Squall (or maybe SQWALL?).  AW associates a Squall with a belligerent breast-feeding or toddling child – but he notices that the Crew have been sombre, even quiet during Showers so perhaps the Skipper referring to this as a Sqwall is unjust?

Further reflection on Showers followed a serious incident at 0135hrs this morning.  AW was comfortable in the Port-Side, Stern cabin (unkindly referred to as the Soft Play Area, as mentioned) when a Deluge of Very Cold Water flooded his face, his tired torso, even his feet.  Assuming the obvious (we were sinking) he ran out to find Skipper similarly wet, but the boat afloat.  Apparently, the boat’s windows are called Port Holes.  This is because they should only be opened in Port.  AW has learned that waves may strike at any time.  Port Holes result in Showers, even Squalls, at sea.

Thursday 12^th September Marmalade notes

PS In order to relieve anxiety that may have been induced by the notes from Tuesday, AW can report a fine pot of Concord Lemon and Vanilla Marmalade appeared on the Saloon breakfast table this morning along with Amazing Atlantic Brown Bread.  Made in a saucepan, sliced on a rolling wave, toasted on Toad Power, and served with marmalade (mentioned) and a Fresh Pot of Coffee….bliss.

Friday 13^th September           Those summer nights    

Skipper handed over to AW at 0300hrs with the words “some nights are wonderful this isn’t one of them”.  But as it happened, AW observed phosphorescence and spoke using the Radio to a gentleman aboard the supertanker Spyros.  The gracious gentleman altered course in order allow AW to cross his bows, and no doubt waved but it was too dark for AW to confirm this.  AW played Spotify through his headphones, sang loudly and jumped up and down on the  cockpit deck above Starboard side Stern cabin to the delight of Bea and the other Crew.

 

 

  ________________________________  

 

This e-mail message is sent on behalf of the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine, a charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England and Wales with company number 222655 and whose registered office is at Pembroke Place Liverpool L3 5QA ("LSTM")

The contents of this e-mail are subject to LSTM’s email disclaimer found at:
http://www.lstmed.ac.uk/disclaimer/email-disclaimer

  ________________________________  

Being on the map

300 Miles from Madeira

 

Notes from the Back Cabin, aka Beginners Biscay

Part 2  Caruna to half way there

Dear Bridget

I am still alive and apparently now "half-way there".  I don't know if this refers to usefulness, distance or time.  The Port-side, Stern cabin remains Immaculate but has gained the additional features of a lee side spare duvet and a windward spare blanket.  In this way, whether we pitch port or starboard I am as snug as a bug.  Somewhat unkindly perhaps, this has been compared to a soft play area.

My new friends – Wendy, Wingey, Otto and Toad

Turns out that good steering really is useful in downwind, following-swell sailing.  Winds have gusted to 37 knots, and swells risen to 5m, so that has been a Thing.  Able Waister (AW) is accustomed to heading for a Tea Shop in these circumstances, but the nearest one is now several hundred miles to windward and so Wendy, the windvane, is a star.  She has steered perfectly, watch after watch for almost 48 hours on the trot.

Electricity is also useful so that AW can charge his toothbrush, and so Wingey, the wind generator is also a Back Cabin Friend.  She, however,  causes vibration akin to a low grumble the length of the boat and so AW has made the acquaintance of Toad (below).

Otto, meanwhile, is a revelation to AW.  In simpler craft, "shall I give her to Otto?" is quite simply meaningless, but I have found that the Skipper in fact refers to Auto, a very small and somewhat faded button on the binnacle.  Simply pressing this button allows AW to walk off, make tea, potentially write a book and Tintin will proceed in a straight line with no further explanation.

And back to Toad – full name "The Toad Generator".  This snaking miracle of steel and rope twists and turns behind the boat generating the quantities of electricity that AW might achieve on Zwift.  The name became clear when AW considered the phonetic or elocutionary challenges experienced in the south of England compared to, for example, Northern Ireland.  Ballycastle pronunciation "tauwed" would help AM understand that the Toad is towed.

Monday 9^th September    Set off for Camarinas, fishing begins

Melita set off to find the beginning of the Camino, and possibly James.  Tintin set off on a grey and swelly sea to expand AW's Fishing Horizons.  Within minutes of leaving the anchorage (mentioned before with reference to outboard engine fuel, lights etc), AW was again wondering if the world was in fact a tumble drier.  Unsurprisingly, there were no fish, but surprisingly, the day developed to very pleasant cruising conditions in the late afternoon.  As usual at such times, Skipper released the crew ashore, and AW found himself exploring a delightful quiet beach and a grim industrial fishing dock.  Camarinas is known as  a refuge for orca-damaged boats and so it was no surprise to AW to find a sailing boat with no rudder on the dock, and a French fellow building a concrete boat on the next pontoon.

Tuesday 10^th September  At sea but all in order

Skipper planned our passage to leave Camarinas early because the wind was rising and sure enough the gusts escalated along with the waves very quickly indeed.  AW tried steering in order that Wendy might have a break and was relieved to find that although both he and Wendy were wobblier than Otto, reasonable adherence to the Skipper's Blue Line was achieved.  No adherence to the Fishing Instructions has been achieved, but at least AW has not lost the equipment overboard.

A moment of significant concern arose when AW realised that the current provision of Ferry Hill 2024 will not stretch to meet AW's requirements to Madeira.  Reassurance has been offered that a jar of World Championship Runner-Up Marmalade is on board, but AW has not yet had sight of the actual jar. 

Wednesday 11^th September         Too much of a good thing       

A day in which AW learned that it is, in fact, possible to have too much of a good thing (wind).  Morale was maintained by eating too much and spending a ridiculous amount of time in the soft play area.  Some consolation for bouncing around all day was offered by a spectacular display of wash phosphorescence in the small hours, and a remarkably fine hot shower.

AW ran "close to the wind" when First Mate enquired about remaining stocks of yoghurt, granola, tiffin and Snacks in General. Subtle suggestion by AW has allowed the blanket of suspicion to fall on the Skipper.

Thursday 12^th September Being on the map       

Two days ago, AW discovered that repeated clicks on the navigation map made our destination (Madeira) appear relatively close.  The excitement was moderated by the observation that Brazil, the USA and Iceland also appeared close using this method.  AW was therefore surprised to find that Skipper uses the same method – today a wall chart was posted in the Saloon showing Portugal, Morocco, Madeira and the Atlantic.  AW is delighted to observe that every 12 hours our position takes a great leap towards Madeira.  He hopes that if the weather is fine, Skipper will again cancel the sailing and send us to the Beach.

 

 

  ________________________________  

 

This e-mail message is sent on behalf of the Liverpool School of Tropical Medicine, a charitable company limited by guarantee registered in England and Wales with company number 222655 and whose registered office is at Pembroke Place Liverpool L3 5QA ("LSTM")

The contents of this e-mail are subject to LSTM's email disclaimer found at:
http://www.lstmed.ac.uk/disclaimer/email-disclaimer

  ________________________________  

Fair winds

Day 2 to Madeira, and we have borne away onto our course having finished with the shipping lanes. Goosewinged sails, 3 reefs in the main and 2 in the genoa, 25-30 knots of wind from the north, and we are making 7 knots with our windsteering at the helm: the Portuguese trade winds are with us, and are here to stay.

The second picture is the view from the stern showing the towed generator and the windvane of the windsteering. And finally Bea on watch 😊

Day 1 to Madeira

We are off to a great start. With a steady force 6 from the north Tintin is bowling along. We avoided the ships transiting the lanes around Cape Finisterre, the most westerly point of Spain. Now it's a sunny evening,  and despite the rolling waves we have have a good supper, which almost landed on the floor but was saved!

Looking forward to some clear skies overnight for stargazing. Sending love to all our family and friends ashore

Notes from the Back Cabin, aka Beginners Biscay

Dear Bridget

I don't know anyone else who will read this blog, so here goes.  It's for you.  Notes to keep you up to date and (mis)informed? 

For anyone else who might read this, I am Stephen, resident of the Port Side, Stern cabin, Immaculately Tidy.  I consider myself Able, as I can Splice, Steer and Trim.  But I am not necessarily rated Able as I do not like to climb the rigging and might therefore be termed a Waister.

Part 1 GB to BofB

Saturday 31^st August                Getting there and away

This Able Waister started the trip to Salcombe by going to Edinburgh.  Scotland was fine but is not the place to start a trip to Salcombe.  Endless trains and buses, with too much luggage, and far too many emails eventually ended by noticing Jo at a Bus Stop.  Had she not been there, we would have stayed on the bus.  So that was good but not as good as the World Class BBQ served by Kate, assisted by Andrew (husband) and Milo (Springer Spaniel).

Sunday 1^st September             Setting sail

Today began jumping up and down on the fore deck with excitement at Departing England.  The Channel was grey and somewhat lumpy.  I learned that Roscoff is in France (somewhere in the past I think I was told it was in Spain, but maybe that was Tim (son), who when heading for A Roche made a mistake and corrected it with a train).

It can be said that Melita (wife) did not have a good day.  Some of it was yellow, and some green.  She displayed fortitude and optimism but not good health.  We arrived in Roscoff, which is in France, and she immediately recovered and found her French, and a Bun Shop.

Monday 2^nd September           Day off in Roscoff

We were awarded a day off as Skipper feared Foul Weather.  We used this opportunity to stroll in the sunshine and show off our Fashionable Wardrobe.  AW found another Boreal 47, not afloat.  So now we have all considered the position of the Rudder, which is important.  We showed our passports in the ferry terminal, had coffee in a café, went for a run around the botanical garden and found a marine biology university which is 150 years old.  Otherwise, Roscoff has a long pier which reaches out to sea, good showers, and an Irish consul.

Tuesday 3^rd September           To Aber Benoit

The Able Waister enjoyed a lumpy day again from Roscoff to Aberbenoit.  The sea was grey and Melita (wife) looked like a Corpse, this observation being confirmed by several of the Crew and the Skipper.  She recovered wonderfully when we anchored high up-river and did up-river swimming and walking.  She showed remarkable skill in killing mosquitoes in the Port Side, Stern cabin late into the night but used this experience of death to make a firm decision to Jump Ship at dawn. 

Wednesday 4^th September   Melita off, start Biscay

The Able Waister (AW) was detailed to abandon Melita ashore at First Light.  That time of the day is not known for mental sharpness, and so while AW did bring the Outboard Engine, he did not bring the Fuel Tank.  The hefty rising tidal flow delivered Melita swiftly to the first mooring line near the shore when the Outboard Engine snagged on said line and cut out.  Melita's somewhat short assessment of the situation and AW skill was gently deflected by the offer of Tintin's  Head Torch with which she set off down a dark country lane to find the Bus to Spain.

Meanwhile AW found Tintin in the dark (without the Head Torch) as he had inadvertently left on all the house lights.  Dignity restored, and Skipper now awake, we set off 24 minutes ahead of schedule at 0734.

Thursday 5^th September         Well out in the bay, not really fishing

For beginners to this experience, the Bay of Biscay is not the place to start cruising.  There are plenty of waves, sometimes a lot of wind, no buses or trains and certainly no email.  The AW was surprised to be left alone above decks in the dark running 8 knots with goosewinged sails and a night so dark you could squeeze it.  Somewhat to his own surprise, he and all aboard survived and rolled in to a rhythm of Watch, Eat, Sleep, Eat, Watch, Eat…

Friday 6^th September                Whey hey we're in Coruna

Friday didn't dawn on AW's watch so much as creep open in a grey and windy way.  The unknown lights of the night resolved into local boats, distant boats and bits of sky.  The swell became broken waves, standing waves, lumpy waves, boat bouncing waves and eventually the sort of waves where the best thing is to practice steering.   We arrived in the afternoon, with rather shaky legs, and discovered it doesn't take much beer to feel dizzy in Spain – but whey hey we're in Spain and they have beer so what's not to like about that?  We ate our meal on stools  -AW pleased not to fall off.

Saturday 7^th September          Day off in Spain

Melita arrived noon from San Sebastian by bus.  She had Fought the French in French when they kicked her bus seat and enjoyed a Spa in Spain so the whole effort was considered a Major Land Victory.  Skipper had again awarded AW a day off ashore (something about the wind, and new crew) so this sunny opportunity was used to swim and admire the to-ing and fro-ing of the extraordinarily large cruise ships, as well as the equally extraordinary physiques displayed by German, Polish and Spanish skippers, and a dancing troupe of traditional dancers.

Sunday 8^th September            Santiago del Compostela

Today Melita took AW to see the finish of the Camino at Santiago del Compostela.  This is not a race but a pilgrimage, not so much a location as a state of being.  AW reflected on this, and the impending voyage to Madeira.  Bea (new crew) arrived after a wedding (not her own) from Gatwick.  AW ingratiated himself to the First Mate by bringing the Saloon, Galley and Starboard Heads up to the state of the Immaculate Port Side, Stern cabin.  Skipper bought Fishing Equipment without Instructions and commissioned AW to catch a Very Large Fish.  First Mate made cautionary remarks about Orcas (which are not fish).

Monday 9^th September            Set off for Camarinas, fishing begins

Melita set off to find the beginning of the Camino, and possibly James.  Tintin set off on a grey and swelly sea to expand our Fishing Horizons.

Tuesday 10^th September